Quotes from Garrett McNamara

I have two settings: full speed and stop.

I haven't been afraid in awhile, but whenever I am, I get a rush.

The world would be a much better place if everyone was doing what they wanted to do.

In other sports, you get to breathe if you make a mistake.

It's a matter of facing your fears. Going where you're not comfortable, after you do it so many times, and you have so many heavy, heavy experiences, then all of the sudden it becomes normal.

I don't wanna say I'm growing up, but I definitely feel content.

In the beginning of my career, I loved the fear because if I was afraid, then I was going to get the rush. Your endorphins get released when you're afraid. So whenever I would surf, I would be looking for the rush.

Now I know that if I surf without expectations and have a map for making my passion my life's plan, I'm always in the present and smiling.

It's so amazing to just be in the water, surfing with your friends.

I hope to be able to keep surfing as long as I'm alive.

I'm not an adrenaline junkie; I won't jump out of aeroplanes and I'm afraid of horses. I just love surfing.

I've probably had the worst wipeouts in surfing, and I've enjoyed every one of them.

It's what I love to do and I'll never stop surfing.

I used to not care if I died, but once I married and had children and became part of a big surfing community, that changed.

Surfing is cleansing, pure and beautiful; it's where I feel most comfortable.

I read 'The Seven Spiritual Laws of Success' every day. The first time I read it, I was 35, depressed, and about to quit surfing.

Surfing is my life. It's my passion.

If you look at the statistics, it's a lot more dangerous to ride down a highway than a big wave.

I wanted to be the first to ride a 100-foot wave.

And, you know, I think all of us surfers, our happy place, the place we like more than anywhere on the wave is in the barrel.

So, when you come down a big wave and everything's perfect, you make it to the shoulder and you kick out. But, when you come down and it closes out or you fall on the way down, then this massive, basically like an avalanche. just lands on you and it feels like a ton of bricks.

I keep trying to listen when I'm in a big wave, but I really don't hear anything.

When I'm riding a wave and making it, it's just like, 'Alright, yeah, another wave.' But when you're getting pounded and thrown in every direction, when you have no control, you really feel alive.

The surfers' code is that you surf your wave and let the world discuss it as you move on to the next one.