Quotes from Shaun Tomson

Surfing teaches patience . On land, surfers cannot will a swell to appear. They have to wait for nature to make the call. So surfers wait . They keep their eyes on the horizon and they wait.

Surfing is all about uncertainty. That feeling of taking a risk, that leap of faith every time I jump into the ocean, that paddle out among things unseen — all of these make surfing very special

So don't worry if someone doesn't have your dream listed in their little book. Go out there and write your own.

Pro surfer. Sometimes you only need to hear someone say it out loud. Sometimes you only need to say it to yourself to make a dream come true.

What he did know was that the only way to get from nowhere to somewhere was to believe in yourself and take a chance.

Sometimes you only need to say it to yourself to make a dream come true.

Not only did we get invited to the party that year, we took over the dance floor.

The wave is so incredibly steep, breaks with such raw power, that the only way to survive is to turn your back to the wave and paddle into the face with 100 percent commitment. Any hesitation at all and the wave will smash you into the reef.

the biggest obstacle I had to overcome that day was not the aura of Pipeline, the coral reef, or the local crew. It was myself. As soon as I convinced myself that I belonged, nothing could stop me.

One word defines the essence of surfing better for me than any other — stoke . One of the best things about stoke is that you can pass it along to someone who has never heard the expression.