Quotes About Challenge

The pursuit has just been to find the 100-foot wave.

The scariest part is when you are coming down the wave and there is all this water coming down the wave and your feet are coming out of the straps.

I'd always surfed with my ego - I had to get the biggest, best wave - and a lot of it was for survival.

In extreme situations, the entire universe becomes our foe; at such critical times, unity of mind and technique is essential - do not let your heart waver!

I just want to be able surf everything - from big waves to small waves.

Surfing big waves is not an extreme sport to me. I fall off, tumble down, and come up. My heart's racing because I'm thinking I almost drowned, and I thank God I can breathe again, but I always think, 'What am I hitting?' Water.

Big waves are a whole different ball game. You're riding a wave with an immense amount of speed and power, generally over 10 meters. On the face of the wave, obviously life and death thoughts start to happen.

I would like to mention astrophysics; in this field, the strange properties of the pulsars and quasars, and perhaps also the gravitational waves, can be considered as a challenge.

It's the board I had a problem with. I could totally handle being in the water and stuff. I came here to do my own stunts. Water! Ocean! Action! Big waves! That water, that water has tamed me. You can feel that the world is connected to it.

As an actor, you're continually riding the waves of whether you're in or out, getting work or not getting work, and Kazan was really a guy who was condemned into not working and looking to go deep into someplace and just live inside his art.

I think at some point there may be artists who will get fed up, and they deliberately want to use their art as a means to rock the waves a little bit. And instead of doing the status quo, they'll deliberately go out to really make a change. I think Kendrick Lamar is an example of that.

I caught every wave I wanted and I fell in love with big waves at 16 years old. Then it just was bigger and bigger from there.

I had gotten too comfortable. I was desensitized whenever I got in the water. I started riding big waves for that rush, but now that feeling is nonexistent.

When I was sixteen I was terrified and I vowed never to surf waves over ten feet tall.

Blue Peter' scarred me for life. I was kayak-surfing in Cornwall and the waves were so strong it was more like white-water rafting. I had to hang on for dear life. At one point I let go and my hand was crushed on a rock.

Well, it was - big wave surfing was my job. And I had to accomplish some great feat every year. And we kept finding bigger and bigger waves until there was no wave too big.

Riding big waves was my passion.

I lived for big waves. It's where I felt comfortable and I could surf with ease. With smaller waves, it didn't feel as natural.

When I took off on nearly vertical waves that no one else would touch, people assumed I had no fear. When they watched me suffer epic wipeouts then come up smiling, it was decided I had a screw loose.

The only way to discover the limits of the possible is to go beyond them into the impossible.

One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.

The first step on the way to victory is to recognize the enemy.

My center is giving way, my right is in retreat; situation excellent. I shall attack.

The best way to escape from your problem is to solve it.