Quotes About Risk

So, when you come down a big wave and everything's perfect, you make it to the shoulder and you kick out. But, when you come down and it closes out or you fall on the way down, then this massive, basically like an avalanche. just lands on you and it feels like a ton of bricks.

When I'm riding a wave and making it, it's just like, 'Alright, yeah, another wave.' But when you're getting pounded and thrown in every direction, when you have no control, you really feel alive.

Nazare is crazy. When you're out in the ocean, and you're a little bit past the wave, outside, it doesn't really look that big. And then, once you get towed into this thing, it is like coming down a mountain, like going over a cliff.

The scariest part is when you are coming down the wave and there is all this water coming down the wave and your feet are coming out of the straps.

I'd always surfed with my ego - I had to get the biggest, best wave - and a lot of it was for survival.

Surfing big waves is not an extreme sport to me. I fall off, tumble down, and come up. My heart's racing because I'm thinking I almost drowned, and I thank God I can breathe again, but I always think, 'What am I hitting?' Water.

Big waves are a whole different ball game. You're riding a wave with an immense amount of speed and power, generally over 10 meters. On the face of the wave, obviously life and death thoughts start to happen.

One time, I went bodysurfing in St. Bart's with a friend. The waves were so intense, and my body was just getting torn up by them. But it was so freeing... but also I'm never doing that again.

In Nazare, the ocean is known as a place of death, not of riding waves.

I had gotten too comfortable. I was desensitized whenever I got in the water. I started riding big waves for that rush, but now that feeling is nonexistent.

When I was sixteen I was terrified and I vowed never to surf waves over ten feet tall.

Blue Peter' scarred me for life. I was kayak-surfing in Cornwall and the waves were so strong it was more like white-water rafting. I had to hang on for dear life. At one point I let go and my hand was crushed on a rock.

A car is a killing machine. It's like waving a loaded gun. People don't realise how dangerous they are.

The only way I can lose is if I'm caught in bed with either a dead girl or a live boy.

You can't be afraid to fail. It's the only way you succeed - you're not gonna succeed all the time, and I know that.

One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure.

The financial markets generally are unpredictable. So that one has to have different scenarios... The idea that you can actually predict what's going to happen contradicts my way of looking at the market.

I don't have a formula to pass on. I always did it my own way. Even today, I hold my independence close. It's what's most precious to me. Passion. Risk. Tenacity. Consistency. This is my professional history.

You gotta stick your neck out and put out a record that isn't safe... that's the Green Day way!

If you hold a cat by the tail you learn things you cannot learn any other way.

Gambling: The sure way of getting nothing for something.

The worst was practicing a stunt for John Wayne in 'McQ.' I lost two teeth, broke six ribs, cracked a vertebra and punctured a lung. I spent 12 days in the hospital.

To be held back by fear is to miss out on challenging yourself in different ways.

The ground beneath you is shifting, and either you get sucked in by holding on to old ways, or you take a giant step forward by taking some risks and seeing what happens.