Quotes About Adventure

Surfing isn't really in my blood. It's hard to catch a big wave in Billingham.

I love being on the sea and the rolling of the ship, and for me, it's not really happening until we get a little wave action going, I love that feeling.

There's a risk to everything you do. You can take off on a one-foot wave and get hurt; you can take off on a ten-foot wave and get hurt. You just don't think about it at all. You just go for it. When you kick out of a really big wave, it feels pretty damn good. You want to do it again.

Ever since our Surfin' Safari' began in the early 1960's, the relations'hip with The Beach Boys and water has been synonymous. 'Surfin', 'Catch a Wave', and 'Surfin' USA' are songs which capture the feelings of being out in the water without a care in the world, living a dream so many long to live no matter where they are from.

With a project like 'The 5th Wave,' you do something you would never do in your normal life; I would never have had S.W.A.T. training or boot camp, and there's something really cool about learning stuff like that that's really fun about our job.

I'm excited to go surfing every time. I have fun in any kind of wave in the ocean.

I grew up in the '80s, and you had these original, big-budget sci-fi adventure things all the time, not based on any source material - you'd have 'Gremlins,' 'Back to the Future,' 'E.T.' 'Ghostbusters,' the list goes on and on. I would love it so much if 'Pacific Rim' was but the first in a new wave of that sort of thing.

And, you know, I think all of us surfers, our happy place, the place we like more than anywhere on the wave is in the barrel.

When I'm riding a wave and making it, it's just like, 'Alright, yeah, another wave.' But when you're getting pounded and thrown in every direction, when you have no control, you really feel alive.

The surfers' code is that you surf your wave and let the world discuss it as you move on to the next one.

Nazare is crazy. When you're out in the ocean, and you're a little bit past the wave, outside, it doesn't really look that big. And then, once you get towed into this thing, it is like coming down a mountain, like going over a cliff.

I like soul, I like rock, I like new wave, I like punk music, I like blues, I like jazz, and I was brought up on all of them from a young boy all the way to my teenage years, when I was wild and crazy, in college.

The pursuit has just been to find the 100-foot wave.

I'd always surfed with my ego - I had to get the biggest, best wave - and a lot of it was for survival.

You know every wave is so different. It just depends on the ride, like when you come down and you don't make the wave and you get blown up and you just feel like so small, but also so alive, because you're at the mercy of this monster and its gotten hold of you and shaking you and rattling you.

I just want to be able surf everything - from big waves to small waves.

The war broke out, and I wanted to do something to aid my country in a time of crisis. I was too tall for the WACs and WAVES, but eventually joined the OSS and set out into the world looking for adventure.

Surfing big waves is not an extreme sport to me. I fall off, tumble down, and come up. My heart's racing because I'm thinking I almost drowned, and I thank God I can breathe again, but I always think, 'What am I hitting?' Water.

I always say that people are like peanut shells on the ocean: the waves will take them everywhere.

The surfing - the waves in Indonesia are amazing.

Surfing waves of water or clouds of powder snow is the best feeling on earth.

Every part of me is a surfer. I love surfing, and I love the waves that I surf. So that's the thing that I get excited about most: What kind of waves am I going to be able to surf? Am I going to be surfing alone, or will we be surfing waves that no one's surfed before? Second to that is photography.

As my early drawings warned me, where humans go, lions and tidal waves follow.

It's just the most amazing feeling to be out there in the water riding waves. It's like walking on the water.