Quotes About Adventure

I went to Alaska a while back and surfed the waves generated from a glacier calving and ever since then, I've never been afraid in the ocean.

I love to swim in the ocean in big waves.

It's the board I had a problem with. I could totally handle being in the water and stuff. I came here to do my own stunts. Water! Ocean! Action! Big waves! That water, that water has tamed me. You can feel that the world is connected to it.

I think I'm one of the most fortunate people in the world. I travel around looking for the best waves and appreciate it every second.

Surfing is definitely something I used to do a lot more before I was working, but I know the waves will always be there, and it's something that, when I'm not traveling as much, I'll definitely get back into.

It's always great to visit Taranaki; it's beautiful, and I've caught some great waves there.

I'm learning kite surfing. It's a little surfboard you have on your feet with straps, and you have a big kite like a power glider in the air that pulls you. You don't need waves to move, and it makes a big spray of water as you go.

I love to surf. Hawaii has some of the best waves in the world, and the most consistent as well. That's always fun.

One time, I went bodysurfing in St. Bart's with a friend. The waves were so intense, and my body was just getting torn up by them. But it was so freeing... but also I'm never doing that again.

Florida's waves are better than Japan. It's just an hour drive to the beach, but just once a week, I'm able to go to the surfing.

No surfer wants to be the photographer, especially when the waves are good.

I like slightly obscure places, where the waves may not be world class, but you can tie some culture in with your surf trip.

I caught every wave I wanted and I fell in love with big waves at 16 years old. Then it just was bigger and bigger from there.

I tend to get overly excited and want to just go. I just love, love big waves.

In Nazare, the ocean is known as a place of death, not of riding waves.

To ride big waves you have to be ready mentally, physically and spiritually.

I had gotten too comfortable. I was desensitized whenever I got in the water. I started riding big waves for that rush, but now that feeling is nonexistent.

I don't measure waves; I'm just blessed to be surfing.

When I was sixteen I was terrified and I vowed never to surf waves over ten feet tall.

Biarritz is world-famous for its surfing. The waves roll high and wild and surfers cross the planet to pit their skills against the swells and curls of these waters.

Blue Peter' scarred me for life. I was kayak-surfing in Cornwall and the waves were so strong it was more like white-water rafting. I had to hang on for dear life. At one point I let go and my hand was crushed on a rock.

Well, it was - big wave surfing was my job. And I had to accomplish some great feat every year. And we kept finding bigger and bigger waves until there was no wave too big.

Riding big waves was my passion.

All these waves are just so fun to ride and are normal to me.