Quotes About Surfing

I am terrified of sharks, so I don't surf!

I'm not real good at surfing, and I'm terrified of sharks. That's, like, one of my main fears. Snakes, sharks, deep water, and commitment. I think those are my four big ones.

I remember thinking, "Far out, I can't believe this," when I started riding waves. Then I was starting to imagine where it could take me.

It's a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks.

I lead a very physical life. I played a lot of sports and I spent a lot of time in the water surfing, swimming. I was a big swimmer.

I surfed until I was 18, and being the athlete that I am, I got really frustrated with how I wasn't really getting any better.

Lex surfed wicked, like the devil. He wasn't afraid of anything, seemed like. He grinned at West as the waves came up toward them like towers of green glass, an emerald city. We're off to see the wizard, he shouted. He whooped. His body crouched ready to fly. He shone against the sun.

On the way to Santa Cruz Dirk and Duck stopped along the coast to surf. They stopped so many times to surf and eat (they finished the avocado sandwiches in the first fifteen minutes and bought sunflower seeds, licorice, peaches, and Foster's Freeze soft ice cream along the way) that they didn't get to Santa Cruz until late that night.

Callie rode with Frank in the convertible, while Joe piled in with Iola and Chet. They drove to a spot just north of Barmet Bay, called Gremlin Beach, which had become popular for surf-riding because of its high swells. "What a day for surf-birds!" Joe cried as the foursome jumped out onto the clean white stretch of sand. An onshore breeze was blowing, and the waves from some distant storm were piling into high-crested breakers. Two boats came into view, kicking up plumes of spray.

Sometimes you surf well and still don't win. It happens to everyone. You learn that one big score doesn't mean much if you don't have a backup. I guess every rookie learns that as time goes by. I took some big lessons from my losses.

When I was very young, I got my first opportunity in television with a show called 'Surfing the Menu,' and it was myself and another buddy. We traveled around Australia and we surfed and cooked and drank too much wine. And we had a lot of fun.

An experience like 'The West Wing' is what I would imagine - even though I've never done it - that surfing feels like. It's, like, 'Whoa! I can just stand up here and ride this without all the anxiety!'

I always regret leaving home if I don't get at least four or five surfs in the week before I leave. I try to be in the water as much as possible before leaving, and it's the one thing I miss massively.

Bluetooth earpieces are so geeky," Dan Cahill said. "But they free up your hands for surfing the web, stealing priceless jewels, and eating pastry," Atticus said, taking a huge bite out of an apple strudel. "And picking your nose," Dan added, which caused Atticus to blow a mouthful of strudel all over the seat in front of them occupied by Dan's sister, Amy, who was trying to sleep

Take it easy, Kelea, said Thrash, grinning at me. Kelea? I repeated. A legendary Hawaiian princess who made friends with the water god. She was a radical surfer, he said. Oh, I replied, blushing. Well, thanks. I guess I better practice if I want to live up to that name.

To lose your everyday life of surfing and being creative on waves, enjoying the ocean - that's scary to me. It was essential to at least try surfing again and get out there and see how it went.

When I was nine, I was taught to ride a surfboard in Waikiki by the beach boy Rabbit Kekai.

There are good waves not that far from Manhattan - on Long Island, in north Jersey. It's true that the best surf around here tends to happen in winter, so you need a good wetsuit, and the time window of good waves is often pretty short, so you have to stay on top of the forecasts.

When I started, I was 18 and really into punk rock and just wanted the action. Over the years, I've gravitated towards the travel and experience around surfing and trying to relay that feeling. Going forward, I'm interested in story-driven and personality-driven themes.

I became third in the U.S. as a junior pro surfer.

My life path has been a blessing and a great learning experience. Skateboarding is my passion and I don't see that changing. When I'm not skating, I love to surf. I'm open to the new experiences and opportunities.

Have you seen some people riding on a piece of plastic they call a surfboard, doing incredible things?

And bring me a hard copy of the Internet so I can do some serious surfing.

Life is a wave of creative consciousness rippling through space and time that we have the honor of aesthetically surfing.