Quotes About Surfing

Being out in big surf is dreamlike. Terror and ecstasy ebb and flow around the edges of things, each threatening to overwhelm the dreamer. An unearthly beauty saturates an enormous arena of moving water, latent violence, too-real explosions, and sky. Scenes feel mythic even as they unfold. I always feel a ferocious ambivalence: I want to be nowhere else; I want to be anywhere else.

My ambivalence about the sport we shared appalled him. It was heresy. Surfing, to begin with, was not a "sport." It was a "path." And the more you poured into it, the more you got back from it—he himself was the exuberant proof of that. I

She had since grown used to some of the insular codes and cryptic slang of surfers, even the grunts and roars and horrible snarls, but she still didn't understand why, after spending hours studying the waves from shore, we often announced our intention to paddle out by saying things like, "Let's get it over with." She could see the reluctance—clammy wetsuit, icy water, rough, lousy surf. She just couldn't see the grim compunction. Once

I'm no romantic, surfing, California boy. I like reading, writing, philosophizing. Scheming. I've been doing some exploration of the inner space.

Many people bypass search engines altogether and still find what they're looking for online. These Internet surfers are using direct navigation.

I am always working out, whether I am on vacation or at home. When in La Jolla, I like to surf, play tennis, and golf - but surfing is definitely my favorite.

My best vacation memory is getting barreled at the beach in Hawaii.

My favorite thing [about surfing] is being creative on waves; it's like an art form. You can do whatever you want on that wave if you work hard at it and just have fun out there.

I love to see actors' work. I love to surf channels late at night and accidentally run into movies I hadn't seen before. It makes me very proud of the profession.

I like the beaches in Orange County the best. I think Orange County has great beaches. Everything from Dana Point to Newport to Laguna; all over the place.

It had been done, the fridge had surfed, and what is more I had photographic evidence, provided I didn't screw up with the film again.

Before setting out for their sunset runs, Jenn and Billy would snap a tape of Allen Ginsberg reading "Howl" into their Walkman. When running stopped being as fun as surfing, they had agreed, they'd quit. So to get that same surging glide, that same feeling of being lifted up and swept along, they ran to the rhythm of Beat poetry.

In surfing, and maybe even in life, the trick is to use the calm between the waves to position yourself for the next one.

I loved going surfing down on Venice Beach. I'd go out with a board under my arm and think, 'I can't do that in Cranhill.'

If you're a surfer, you just want to surf. You don't know if anyone's going to see you, and you don't really care if they see you. You just live for that feeling.

As for hobbies, I don't really read or watch TV. I'm very active. I like surfing, skiing, riding bikes with my kids, and working out with my friends.

Where the surf meets the shore – lots of neat things can happen there.

One word defines the essence of surfing better for me than any other — stoke . One of the best things about stoke is that you can pass it along to someone who has never heard the expression.

My sisters did ballet when we were younger and I remember sitting in the car with my dad and going 'can we hurry up and go surfing!?, I'm sick of waiting for my sisters and their ballet classes.'

There's nothing like coming home here, having the day off or morning off and going surfing. In Orlando I don't know what I would do.

The best version of surfing is not competing, I think. It's just... it's perfect. You're perfectly present. You're perfectly in the moment. You're perfectly not thinking about anything else in the world. You're just surfing. You're surfing away with your friends or your family, and that's it. You're just there.

My parents had bought a video camera for us to film Christmases and other family events. I took it down to the beach, set up a tripod, and I would grab two other friends, and we'd take turns filming and surfing. Then, at the end of the day, I'd go home and I'd make a video for everybody to watch.

I originally started GoPro with the sole purpose of helping surfers capture photos of themselves and their friends while they were surfing. I thought it was crazy that very few surfers had any photos or videos of themselves.

I was hoping that I could one day get a job at Quik or Billabong working on their videos. So I made 'Momentum' on a shoestring budget for fun and sort of a resume to work for others.