Quotes About Surfing

When I was 18 at the Santa Ana River Jetty is where I put my first board in the water that I ever got from Joe Quigg. I was just riding the whitewater in, and I was just in heaven.

I have a Chamberlain I bought from some surfers in Westwood many years ago. It's an early analog synthesizer; it operates on tape loops. It has 60 voices - everything from galloping horses to owls to rain to every instrument in the orchestra.

I started surfing when I was working on 'The Hunger Games,' out on the north shore of Oahu, so about four years ago. I used to skateboard as a kid, kind of religiously, until I broke my leg riding in a pool when I was about 14 and I couldn't play football that fall.

I need to surf - surf and yoga. Whenever I'm in L.A., I go down to San Diego to surf for the weekend, and I always come back perfect.

I'm somewhat of a masochist at heart. I like to sweat. I come from a very competitive sporting background - my dad was a world-champion surfer - so it's always been a part of my DNA. I do a lot of soft-sand running, hiking, yoga, and boxing, and I compete in triathlons.

If you want to surf, move to Hawaii. If you like to shop, move to New York. If you like acting and Hollywood, move to California. But if you like college football, move to Texas.

I've never been to college, and I think about that. But I kept putting it off, and I am also thinking about having a child, and that's really important. Also, I want to do a lot of traveling and surfing - two of my hobbies.

Surfing is always a sport of waiting. We wait for the right season, we wait for the right swell, we wait for the right tide, we wait for first light, we wait for the night wind to cease, and then we wait for the right wave. All this waiting for just a few seconds of the most dazzling beauty a human can ever know. So

I was a gymnast for twelve or thirteen years. Then I got into surfing and now I paddle board and hike and do whatever I can. I think it's my love of the outdoors.

I was picking up surfing, which I also fell in love with. Then I was like, man, to combine the two [free ride and surfing ] would be perfect.

Where I grew up, surfing was a way for people to celebrate their love and respect for the ocean.

Surfing for me is more than my lifestyle; it's my passion, my love and it's a part of me.

I just love being on the ocean and being creative on the waves and the feeling you get when you're surfing. All around it's beautiful and fun.

I don't know what the beach of Laguna is like now but in the thirties it was a fine place to pass summer days. There was constant volleyball, there was surfing and surfers, there was an artist colony and there was so on and so forth and all of it was delightful. It seems to me that the best part of all was riding our bikes up the canyon at first dark in those days when the sky was still a poem. And

When I'm 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now - for me it's a lifelong journey.

Sometimes in the morning, when it's a good surf, I go out there, and I don't feel like it's a bad world.

I've always lived here, by the sea. I was a beach brat. I was born riding the peak of a crest of a wave. I was born with salt in my eyes. No, I mean it. I was conceived right down there on that beach. Six years old and surfing. It's all that sea in me. That's what makes my eyes change color. I've got waves inside. The ocean runs through me, man.

When I was younger, I used to be a part of the surfing-and-skateboarding community.

To convince people to back your idea, you've got to sell it to yourself and know when it's the moment. Sometimes that means waiting. It's like surfing. You don't create energy, you just harvest energy already out there.

Normally, my digital peregrinations take me to destinations like Facebook, YouTube, and boingboing.net.

I tried surfing once in Brazil, but I'm kind of clumsy.

Every day is different when I'm home, but mainly I just surf. There's no nightlife or shopping, so it's pretty mellow but really nice to come back to after a trip or an event. If you're traveling, you're all stressed out, then you get to Kauai, and nothing matters anymore.

Surfing is one of the most joyful pursuits a human can take up. But there's no joy in a deadzone. If you've ever surfed in turds and medical waste you don't want to repeat the experience.

I don't see myself as legendary. If you want a legend, talk about someone like Duke Kahanamoku.