Quotes About Surfing

There's nothing like coming home here, having the day off or morning off and going surfing. In Orlando I don't know what I would do.

Surfing music is dead. It was just a summer craze for kids on the beach. I'm finished with it.

I've been surfing once in my entire life and I wasn't terrible at it, but my love for music is like the Hamilton family loves water. I understand it - but I'll stick to music.

There's a much bigger picture beyond surfing, its part of an ocean culture. Everything comes back to Mother Nature. Surfing is a way of connecting, and saying thanks.

Surfing teaches patience . On land, surfers cannot will a swell to appear. They have to wait for nature to make the call. So surfers wait . They keep their eyes on the horizon and they wait.

Men in high levels of government seldom surf.

In a recent interview, he compared himself to surfers: "What are they doing this for? It's just pure. You're alone. That wave is so much bigger and stronger than you. You're always outnumbered. They always can crush you. And yet you're going to accept that and turn it into a little, brief, meaningless art form.

This is what I mean by quitting surfing. When you surf, as I then understood it, you live and breathe waves. You always know what the surf is doing. You cut school, lose jobs, lose girlfriends, if it's good.

Hands folded under my chin, I drifted. A bruise-colored cloud hung over Koko Head. A transistor radio twanged on a seawall where a Hawaiian family picnicked on the sand. The sun-warmed shallow water had a strange boiled-vegetable taste. The moment was immense, still, glittering, mundane. I tried to fix each of its parts in memory. I did not consider, even passingly, that I had a choice when it came to surfing. My enchantment would take me where it would.

Surfers have a perfection fetish. The perfect wave, etcetera. There is no such thing. Waves are not stationary objects in nature like roses or diamonds. They're quick, violent events at the end of a long chain of storm action and ocean reaction. Even the most symmetrical breaks have quirks and a totally specific, local character, changing with every shift in tide and wind and swell.

I did not consider, even passingly, that I had a choice when it came to surfing. My enchantment would take me where it would.

And I saw surfing that day - by Leslie Wong, among others - that made my chest hurt: long moments of grace under pressure that felt etched deep in my being: what I wanted, somehow, more than anything else. That night, while my family slept, I lay awake on the bamboo-framed couch, heart pounding with residual adrenaline, listening restlessly to the rain.

God created the heavens and the earth, the oceans and the waves for our enjoyment. Surfing is just my way of worshipping Him.

Every day on the water is a good day!

I'm a golfer, and what are the two sports you can do till you drop? Golf and surfing. They're great for you limber-wise, they're great for you health-wise, and they put you in sweet locations.

My set comes with a smaller fin in the back, i find this helps me release off the top a lot easier

You never came home for lunch: you just stayed doing, playing, having fun, surfing, running round.

I'm fortunate enough with the surfing to be very much at home at the water - my pulse and heart rate are slower in the water than they are on land.

I wasted too much time in my twenties. I worked, but I would do theater in the evening, and during the day I would surf and do irascible things. And then, for some reason, as I got closer to my thirties, I thought, 'Okay Joel, you've wasted enough time.'

No, 'Point Break' for me - growing up on the beaches of Sydney as a surfer, it was kind of the movie that we watched every week. For me to be Johnny Utah, I'm beside myself.

Out of the water, I am nothing.

The ocean is so powerful and so healing at the same time. It's kind of like a sanctuary. And the culture of the people in surfing, I love that. It's such a community. It's just got this, like, chill way about it. When you're in the water, it's very inclusive.

I like looking cute. So I want to look cute in the water.

I love the beach; I grew up on the Baltic Sea. I love the beach. I love the water. I love surfing and swimming.